Qipao jumpsuit? Qipao jumpsuit!
I have always been a fan of Porcupine’s Qipao patterns, and when Yi Farn shared her new creation, a Qipao Jumpsuit, I just had to agree to test it! A traditional qipao (us Cantonese speakers call it cheongsam) usually features a restrictive collar and is very form fit with not much ease at all. Not very comfortable to wear, but I love the aesthetics.
Last year, Porcupine released a qipao pattern with an A-line skirt version and open collar. Below is my version of it.
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Yi Farn took a creative spin on this classic style again, and this qipao jumpsuit is so much fun to make and wear. It’s comfortable, stylish, elegant, and unique! It retained the mandarin collar and front curved button closure, but with a back zip and a blousy elastic waist, it’s so cute and easy to take off for those urgent toilet visits. It also has pockets!
The pattern works well with soft drapey fabrics like rayon, viscose, silk, and crepe. For my test sample, I used this rayon in mustard floral with a slate grey base that I found a while ago on the sale table at my local Spotlight. The yellow buttons just blended into the print!
It comes in 2 sleeve options and 3 lengths. I made the sleeved 3/4 length version in size 2 bust and graded to size 4 waist and hip. Apart from the grading, I didn’t make any adjustments. The shoulders, sleeves, and armscye depth are perfect for me, but I do have narrow shoulders so it’s worth checking the shoulder width before you start.
I stitched my elastic differently from the instructions, as I only have 15mm elastic in my stash and I don’t want to change the width of the elastic casing. Here’s how I did it.
Firstly, join the elastic ends! With this method, I’d usually make the elastic loop a little more snug than usual. Stitch the pants to the bodice with 15mm seam allowance, then double fold the elastic and use pins or marker to quarter the elastic.
Then I matched the marks on my elastic to the front, back and side seams and pinned it to the pants side of the raw edge.
Starting from one of the seams, needle down and remove the pin, then stretch and hold the length of elastic between the two seams, zigzag-stitched evenly along the raw edge, then overlock it. Some sewists would skip the zigzag but I’m not very good at feeding the elastic to my overlocker evenly, so better be safe!
Then fold down the overlocked edge towards the pants to create the ‘casing’.
Finally, top-stitch the other long edge of the elastic to create to secure it to the waistline. I like sewing elastic this way, as it prevented the elastic from twisting, and I can avoid the drama of feeding the elastic through the casing, which isn’t my favourite part of sewing with elastic!
Hope you enjoyed reading about my experience sewing the Qipao Jumpsuit! I love the 3/4 length but I would like to make a solid black version in full length with pearlescent buttons. It would look so classy! And you’re a qipao fan, check out the other tester versions! They’re all lovely and I’m sure will inspire you to make your own for the upcoming festivities.