Vogue 1671 dress lining hack
When I first saw the Vogue 1671 sample in bright yellow, I knew I had to have it. I waited patiently for it to land in Australia and I made it late last year. It’s such a gorgeous design, I used the reversible indigo spot linen from Potter and Co and I absolutely love how it turned out.
I’m not a fan of the lining construction, though. It’s not a simple dress to construct, and if I was going into all the trouble to cut out lining and sewing them together so nicely, I would not settle with exposed waist and centre back seams inside as instructed. I shared how I sewed my lining to achieve a nice finish inside on my Instagram stories, and I’m just expanding them here.
To fully enclose the lining, you need to make sure you don’t stitch down the collar to the bodice back all the way to the centre back. As I only discovered the weird lining construction after the fact, I unpicked the collar and stitch the two layers separately (find the detail near the end of this post). But if you’re reading this before you started sewing, you can plan for it instead of unpicking. There are many ways to achieve it, so I will not be prescriptive here. For example, check out Melanie’s method over at her blog. I wish I had seen her post before I started sewing mine!
Alright, let’s begin! First, omit the basting at step 26 and 48 because you’re going to stitch the two layers separate.
When you’re up to step 47, you will find that your front inset pieces are already stitched to the front bodice, so you cannot attach the skirt and skirt lining as you would a simpler lined dress.
Start with the shell/outer layer. Pin the skirt to the bodice, right sides together, be careful not to catch the bodice lining.
Stitch precisely from one end of the front inset to the other through all layers, backstitch to secure. Now your skirt is attached to the bodice at the front inset only.
Next, lift the bodice lining, stitch skirt and bodice from one edge of the front inset to the centre back seam, starting right at the end of the line of stitching you just made along the front inset seam allowance. Repeat on the other side. Your skirt is now fully attached to the bodice.
Then you will work on attaching the skirt lining. Right sides together, pin the skirt lining to the bodice lining starting from centre back seams, matching notches and side seams.
Similar to how you stitched the skirt to the bodice, lift the shell layer, stitch the skirt and bodice lining together from one edge of the front inset to the centre back seam. Repeat on the other side.
Stitch the front inset section through all layers again to secure the lining pieces.
Now you have attached the shell and lining separately. Turn the dress lining out, press waist seam upwards.
At this stage, I unpicked about 1 inch at the collar seams from the centre back edges. Then stitch the collar back to the bodice only, and the collar facing to the lining only.
This allowed me to install the invisible zip to the shell fabric, and then turned the lining seam allowance and hand-stitched it along the zip.
That’s how I achieved a tidy finish on the inside of the Vogue 1671 dress!